Photo editing can be pretty daunting. Open up any post-processing program, and you’ll be confronted by a slew of sliders, tools, and options (it’s enough to make
Fortunately, basic photography editing isn’t nearly as hard as it seems. There are a few simple steps you can take to get great results right off the bat, which I share in this article.
Specifically, I offer a series of basic principles that you can use when editing any image. They’re quick, they’re easy, and they’ll remain useful, even as you level up your editing skills and dive into more advanced applications.
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And while the JPEG format is nice for quick snapshots, if you want to do serious photo editing, then you need to be using RAW. It’ll give you far more flexibility; with a RAW file, you can dramatically alter exposure, white balance, color, and more. Whereas JPEG files only allow limited changes (and if you edit a JPEG file too heavily, you’ll end up with various unwanted artifacts, like banding).
One RAW drawback: It’s not an easily displayable format. Before you can send a RAW photo to friends, post it on social media, or post it on your website, you’ll need to use a RAW editor to
By the way, you can set the file format in your camera’s menu – and if you’re struggling, check your camera’s manual. These days, pretty much every camera offers a RAW file format (even smartphones!).
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The histogram shows the distribution of tones in your image. Peaks toward the middle of the histogram represent midtones, whereas peaks toward the left represent shadows and peaks toward the right represent highlights. Note that peaks pressing up against either side of the histogram indicate clipped details, which you should generally avoid (so if you
After looking at your image and analyzing the histogram, simply move your Exposure slider until you get the result that you want.
(If you’re not sure how to proceed, I’d recommend simply pushing the Exposure slider back and forth while watching your image. You’ll quickly get a sense of what looks good and what doesn’t!)
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Note that basic photography editing programs offer additional exposure sliders, and these allow for precise adjustments. For instance, the Highlights slider lets you adjust only the bright areas of the image, the Shadows slider lets you adjust only the dark areas of the image, and so on. Feel free to experiment with these sliders, though always keep your eye on the histogram as you make changes!
White balance is designed to counteract any unwanted color casts in your photos, and once you’ve adjusted your exposure, it’s the next beginner photo editing step I’d recommend.
Now, your camera will have already applied a white balance of some sort, but it often needs adjustment. A perfect white balance shows the whites in your images
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As they look in real life (though you can always tweak this later for artistic reasons). Compare the two photos below, one with a too-cool white balance and one with a too-warm white balance:
Do you see the difference? Neither of the photos are properly white balanced, which is where your photo editing WB adjustment comes in handy.
Like the effect, or you simply want to adjust the white balance further for creative reasons, you can always move the Temp and Tint sliders until you get a nice look).
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RAW files tend to suffer from limited contrast, so it often makes sense to find your Contrast slider and increase it until you get a nice result:
(You also have the option to fine tune the contrast with the Highlights, Shadows, Whites, and Blacks sliders. Have fun experimenting with different effects!)
Saturation refers to the intensity of the colors in your image, which you can adjust via – you guessed it! – the Saturation slider:
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Of saturation – but carefully, like seasoning to a meal. It’s easy to go too far, and then you’ll end up with an unpleasant result.
. This is like saturation, but tends to be more subtle. If saturation isn’t giving you the look you’re after, go ahead and try vibrance instead. Or start by trying vibrance, then move on to saturation. The order isn’t important; it’s all about experimenting to achieve the effect you want!
The vibrance and/or saturation. For instance, if you want a moody image but the colors are just too bright and powerful, try reducing the saturation. Here, a little change can go a long way, and by subtly dropping the saturation, you can get an interesting cinematic effect.
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Now, most RAW photos can do with a bit of sharpening. So go ahead and boost the sharpening amount (be sure to zoom in to 100% while you do this; that way, you can see the effects up close). If your image includes certain areas that you
Want sharpened – a person’s face, for instance – consider boosting the Masking slider, which will ensure the sharpening only targets the more detailed areas of the shot.
Finally, while every image doesn’t need noise reduction, if you zoom to 100% and see little speckles, you’ll probably want to reduce both luminance noise and color noise. Note that too much noise reduction will decrease sharpness and look all-around bad, so don’t go overboard! Instead, boost the Luminance slider slightly, check the result, and then fine tune. Do the same to the Color slider.
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And you’re done! At this point, you can always dive into more advanced photo editing applications (e.g., adjust specific colors or work with the tone curve). Or you can export your image as a JPEG for sharing and viewing!
Now that you’ve finished this article, you know how to do basic photo editing – and you’re ready to start enhancing your images!
Of course, I’ve only offered a starting point, but it really will take you far. And once you’ve mastered the basics, the sky is the limit!
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What part of photo editing do you struggle with? Do you have any basic photo editing tips of your own? Share your thoughts in the comments below!
Is a wedding and portrait photographer based in London. Her absolute favourite past time is going on “mummy” dates with her kids and husband. Other than that, as a homebody, she is content curled up on the sofa, hot chocolate in hand, watching films with her family whenever she has a free weekend. Check out her work on www.lilysawyer.com Follow her on her fave social media platform Instagram.You see, I’ve spent plenty of time learning how to edit portraits in Lightroom, and I’ve developed a simple, 11-step process for beautiful results. Below, I’ve shared my entire system, which will take your photos from “Before” to “After”:
Lightroom to edit your portraits. Any full-fledged editing software will work, including Capture One, ON1 PhotoRAW, ACDSee, Luminar, and more. Lightroom is my personal favorite program, and I do recommend it for beginners, but you should be able to follow along with my instructions regardless of your software.
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One more thing: Every photo is different, and while I’ve selected a standard portrait shot as an example, you may need to make tweaks to my editing process as you go along. That’s absolutely okay! Just bear in mind that, even where your technique changes, the overall step-by-step process should remain the same. Make sense?
I often apply a sharpening preset upon import, which gives my RAW images a bit of extra pop and cuts down my editing time significantly when I’m working with a large number of images at once. In case you’re interested in trying out my portrait sharpening preset for yourself, here are the details:
(To apply a preset on import, go to the righthand panel in Lightroom and find the Apply During Import tab. Go to Develop Settings>User Presets, then click on the preset you wish to apply.)
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Every photo features a slightly different tint and temperature, which depends on the color of the light and the shooting location. Unless you custom-set your white balance using a gray card before each shoot, your image will likely need a bit of color correction.
Fortunately, color correction is simple. One method is to find a neutral surface in the image (i.e., an area that should be pure white or gray), then select it with the White Balance Eyedropper tool. Another option is to simply adjust the Temperature and Tint sliders until you get a result you like.
In my example image, the temperature is a bit cold (i.e., blue), so I need to warm it up. There doesn’t appear to be a neutral surface, so I’ll adjust the white balance sliders to give the image more warmth:
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If you’ve taken your shot correctly, you should have a relatively well-exposed shot, but it always pays to check the histogram to be sure; you should have zero peaks pressed up against the walls of the graph, and unless the image is meant to feature lots of darks and/or lights, the curve should be balanced throughout the histogram.
Then take a careful look at your portrait subject’s skin tones, hair, and background. I recommend adjusting the HighlightsandShadowssliders until you get a nice result. Go ahead and experiment, though a common
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